PHYTOCOSMETICS IN SKIN MICROBIOME MODULATION
EVIDENCE, BIOACTIVE STRATEGIES AND CHALLENGES FOR SKIN HOMEOSTASIS
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.5281/zenodo.23339942Keywords:
Skin microbiome, Phytocosmetics, Plant bioactives, Microbiome-friendly, Skin homeostasis, DermocosmeticsAbstract
SDGs: 3 – Good health and well-being; 12 – Responsible consumption and production.
Abstract: The skin microbiome is an integral component of the cutaneous biological barrier and contributes to colonization resistance, immune education and epidermal microenvironment homeostasis. Growing recognition of this ecosystem has stimulated the development of microbiome-friendly cosmetics and interest in plant-derived ingredients capable of modulating resident microorganisms without indiscriminate community suppression. This critical narrative review examines evidence on phytocosmetics and plant bioactive compounds for skin microbiome modulation, focusing on homeostasis, barrier function, inflammation, formulation and translation. Current literature indicates that polyphenols, botanical extracts and fermentation-derived products may exert selective antimicrobial or prebiotic-like effects in experimental models. Specific evidence includes Ribes nigrum extracts that favor Staphylococcus epidermidis while limiting opportunistic microorganisms in vitro, as well as exploratory clinical studies in which botanical extracts were associated with shifts in facial microbial composition. However, there is no universal “healthy microbiome,” and changes in microbial abundance or diversity do not automatically translate into clinical benefit. Efficacy depends on ingredient composition, concentration, vehicle, pH, preservatives, anatomical site, baseline microbiome and the selected endpoint. Microbiome-oriented phytocosmetics are therefore promising but still emerging. Their consolidation requires phytochemical standardization, formulation controls, robust microbiological and metagenomic methods, demonstration of barrier function and safety, and clinical trials linking microbial changes to clinically meaningful skin benefits.
Keywords: skin microbiome; phytocosmetics; plant bioactives; microbiome-friendly; skin homeostasis; dermocosmetics.
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